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How To Cleansed A Labrador? Your Guide Here

By
 Ashly 
on 
May 1, 2021

The Labrador Retrievers are known to be one of the most lovable dog breeds and are a very popular pet across the world.

These dogs are also wonderful family pets and would be a good companion for your family.

But, there are instances on the contrary when your Labrador acts a little mischievous and there are times when they start chewing things or start urinating in the wrong places and this is the time when you need to know how to deal with the Labrador. The Labrador Retriever is a type of dog that's also known as a "Lab" for short. Their friendly and playful nature makes Labs very popular pets.

This breed loves the company of its owners and is always happy to see them.


7 Steps To Cleansed A Labrador 

Step 1

Brush your Labrador retriever's coat fully using a slicker brush to remove any mats or clumps of fur that might have formed.

Step 2

Lead the dog to an empty bathtub. Close the bathroom door, if possible, to close off any potential means of escape. Give your dog several dog treats as a form of enticement and reward.

Step 3

Turn on the faucets slowly, using warm water. Wet down your Labrador retriever's entire coat using a cup.

Step 4

Place a small dollop of shampoo in one of your hands and rub it onto the dog's back. Work up a good lather, adding more shampoo as necessary. Work in sections, such as the Labrador's torso, chest, back and stomach, then hips, hind legs and tail, and finally the front legs and neck. Use caution when using soap on your dog's head and face. Place the shampoo on a fingertip when working in the lather.

Step 5

Rinse the Labrador retriever's coat fully using clean water from the faucet.

Step 6

Use a cream rinse conditioner on your Labrador retriever's coat if the fur feels dry or coarse. Apply the conditioner in the same manner as the shampoo. Allow the cream rinse to set on the fur for a few minutes before rinsing.

Step 7

Towel dry your Labrador fully before opening the door and turning it loose. Feed it a couple of dog treats as a reward for putting up with the bath.

How to Clean Your Labradors Ears – And Why You Should Do It

An important part of responsibly owning a pet means taking proper care of them.

This includes feeding them, regular visits to the vet, daily walks, and, of course, grooming.

While many people prefer to groom their dogs themselves as a way to bond with their pet and save money, you need to make sure to do it properly for your dog to gain maximum benefit, and of course to make sure you do no harm.

The ears are an often overlooked area of the body for grooming and require special care because they are so sensitive.

Learn how to clean your Labrador's ears quickly, effectively and above all, safely, in this guide.

Why Clean Your Dog's Ears?

Dogs have curvy, twisty inner ears and this anatomy provides the ideal environment for bacteria, yeast, and parasites. The inner ears can also easily collect debris since they will have to travel through various curves to get out.

Regularly cleaning your dog's ears gives you the opportunity to check for debris and other issues. It also helps prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. Cleaning your pooch's ears is especially important if they have a great deal of inner-ear hair or a lot of earwax.

Cleaning their ears also provides the perfect opportunity to check for irritation or infection.

If you notice any issues with the ears, such as:

  • Hair loss
  • Crusty skin
  • Swelling
  • Redness
  • Bad smell or discharge

Take them to the vet before cleaning. Doing any cleaning at this point can cause further irritation and possibly make it harder for your vet to diagnose.

Also, if you see black or brown ear wax that looks like coffee grounds, your dog might have microscopic ear mites which also prompt a visit to the vet.

How Do You Know if Your Dog Has an Ear Infection?

If your dog repeatedly scratches at or rubs their ear

Any discharge from the ear

Any growths or swelling in or around the ear

Any smell coming from the ear

Soreness or redness inside the ear

Sensitivity to touch or pain around the ears

Infection is more of risk among dogs who swim or bathe regularly, particularly for breeds with long and floppy ears. This makes a Labrador particularly susceptible so it is important to keep a close eye on their ears.

You can minimize the risk of infection by drying your pup's ears thoroughly, putting cotton balls in the canals during bath time, or using an ear drying solution after swimming.

Even if you do these things, however, regularly cleaning your pooch's ears should not be skipped because it lets you check for and prevent infections.

How Can You Prevent Ear Infections in Your Dog?

Simple answer? – By regularly cleaning their ears!

For a dog like a labrador whose long ears cover the canals making them prone to ear issues, you should aim to inspect and gently clean their ears once per week.

This will keep their ears optimally clean, healthy and infection-free, and give you the chance to spot any trouble early to address it or get professional help if needed.

How To Remove Excess Hair From Dog Ears – If Required

Depending on the breed you have, your pet may have a great deal of hair around the outside of its ear.

This is fairly easy to remove as you can simply trim it with a pair of gentle scissors, such as manicure scissors, as long as your pooch doesn't squirm and move around, making it potentially dangerous.

You don't want the hair outside their ears to grow too long as it can mat or simply encourage the presence of bacteria. This will also cause moisture to collect around the ears.

Can You Pluck Deep Internal Ear Hair?

Some dogs will grow hair out of their ear canals, but this is not always the case.

Some experts say that you can pluck while others suggest avoiding it.

It's a good idea to consult your vet or professional groomer first.

In some cases, they may tell you that this internal hair doesn't pose any problem and can be left. In other situations, they may give you instructions on how to remove it yourself or suggest you bring your furry friend to them to have it removed regularly.

In the case of excessive hair in this area, tangles or mats can form if it is not regularly trimmed and/or plucked.

You can actually use your index finger and thumb to remove some of the excess hair along the ear flap or inside the ear.

Only pull out small amounts each time – as few hairs as possible to avoid any pain – and make sure you pull it in the direction of the hair growth. Sometimes spraying medicated ear powder will help dry out wax and make this process easier.

Be sure not to remove hair that is over a half-inch into the ear's opening as this part of the ear should only be touched by a trained vet. It's generally accepted that deep internal ear hair should be left and that this part of the ear is essentially self-cleaning. So leave this unless under direction from a vet.

If it does need removing, you follow the same process to remove the hair using tweezers or hemostats. But make sure to be shown how by your vet or a pro groomer before ever attempting this on your own.

How to Trim Your Dog’s Nails Safely

Nail trimming is an essential part of dog grooming, and trim nails are one clear sign of your dog’s good health and hygiene.

Professional groomers will perform the task for squeamish owners, but dog nail trimming is a simple procedure if done correctly.

Since nail trimming can be an anxiety-laden experience for many dogs, start handling your puppy’s feet and trimming their nails when they’re young, so they become accustomed to the process.

Some dogs will sit in your lap or on a table while you clip their nails, while others may need some form of restraint.

Let Your Dog Feel Comfortable - Tips For Day 1 to Day 7

Day 1: Let your puppy sniff the nail clipper or grinder. Give a treat and praise.

Day 2: Touch the nail clipper or grinder lightly to each paw. Give a treat and praise.

Day 3: Touch the nail clipper to each paw and squeeze the clipper so the puppy hears the sound, or turn the grinder on and let the puppy feel the vibration. Don’t actually trim a nail. Give a treat and praise.

Day 4: Touch the nail clipper or grinder to your puppy’s feet again. Give a treat and praise.

Day 5: Try trimming off just the very tiniest tip from one front paw nail. Only do one nail. Offer lots of happy praise and a treat if your puppy lets you.  Even if he lets you, just do one. Repeat every day until he lets you do this and doesn’t seem to mind.

Day 6: Try trimming just the tip-off of just two nails.

Day 7: Keep working your way up, trimming additional nails each day, until you’ve got them all and your puppy doesn’t mind. Practice even when you don’t need to clip a nail. Even pretending you are clipping and going through the motions helps your pup get used to the whole process.

How to Cut Dog Hair with Scissors

Grooming a dog on your own can be a little intimidating, especially if it’s your first time.

If you use a quality set of grooming scissors and work carefully, you can take care of things right at home. Scissors have the benefit of being quiet, which also helps keep your dog calm as you work.

Start by trimming hair from the sides and legs with straight and curved shears, then finish up on areas like the face and tail with rounded safety shears.

If there are any thick patches or matted areas, you can take care of those with some thinning shears. Give your dog some praise and treats, and you’ll be done!

Trimming the Dog’s Coat

  • Comb out your dog’s coat. Use a regular dog brush to make sure everything is nice and even. If there are any knots, hold them gently with one hand and place the brush in your other hand. Slowly and gently brush them out to avoid hurting your dog.

    Many owners prefer to groom their dog right after its bath, since the hair may be easier to work with when it is slightly damp. If the dog's coat is very knotted, trim these out before washing the dog, as water can knit mats together even more.
  • Decide how short you want to cut the fur. If your dog has long hair and you want to keep it long, be sure to trim enough in places that are prone to matting, such as the belly and tail. Beyond that, length is largely a matter of preference. Use your fingers as a guide to making sure that you don’t cut too much off.

    For instance, you may decide that you want to cut most of your dog’s hair to the length of your finger. Use your finger to measure the length as you cut and keep things consistent.

    You don’t have to cut all of the hair to the same length. For instance, you might cut the dog’s sides to finger length but the belly to half a finger length.
  • Cut hair on the dog’s body front to back. Start with the straight shears and begin cutting from the area at the top of the dog’s neck. Slowly and carefully work your way down to the tail area, but don’t cut the tail hair yet. Then go back and trim the hair down the sides of the dog’s belly and legs.

    If your dog has thick fur that you want to lighten up, you can go back over these areas with the thinning shears a bit to feather the hair into varying lengths.

    You can also go back over the sides a bit with the curved scissors so that the hair looks more natural instead of all being cut straight across.
  • Work slowly and carefully. Injuring your dog is sure to make it afraid of grooming sessions. Take your time! Working carefully also makes it less likely that you will make mistakes when cutting. A couple of basic guidelines will ensure a painless, successful grooming session:

    Cut only where you can hold up the hair and see through it. That is, if the hair is so thick that you can’t lift it up and see light shining through, you are probably cutting too close to the dog’s skin.

    It's best to keep a comb between the dog's skin and the scissors, as this will help prevent you from cutting the dog's skin.

    Use a light touch when cutting with the scissors, instead of chopping the blades down hard and fast. That way, if you accidentally do catch your dog’s skin in the scissors, you’ll probably be able to stop before causing an injury.

Grooming Sensitive Area

  • Save sensitive areas for last. Cut the sides and legs before you start on more difficult parts like the face, ears, feet, and tail. That way, you can be sure to get the bulk of the cutting out of the way. If your dog gets skittish at the end and you have to stop, it will at least have been mostly trimmed.
  • Use extra care around the dog’s face, ears, and tail. When cutting these areas, don’t plan on removing lots of hair. Instead, concentrate on carefully removing any hair that’s getting in the way of the dog’s eyes, and removing excess hair to prevent matting on the ears and tail. Use the rounded tip safety shears when working on these areas.
  • Work back to front when trimming the dog’s feet. Use the rounded tip shears here as well. Trim the feet from the back, near the leg, up toward the toes. This makes it easier to see what you are doing and not cut too much off. Only cut fur that hangs out past the edges of the toes and foot pads--no shorter.
  • Use the thinning shears to fix any problem areas. If there are any matted areas or patches of thick hair, use the thinning shears to remove these without taking all of the hair away. Varying the length of the dog’s hair will also give its coat a more natural look.

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Ashly

Hey yaa! Im Ashly and I love pets. Growing up in a house with 2 dogs, a cat, a parrot and many furry rodents; it was natural for me to have a profound affection for them. I created GenerallyPets.com to create useful guides and articles on looking after your furry friends. The advice given on this site is our views and expertise, please consult a VET prior to testing anything. Hope my site helps you :)

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